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When compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar award-winning establishments. But, nestled high among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

An Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. This honour has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their humble restaurant achieving such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to echo outside its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.